As I mentioned Monday, the middle of Australia is a sea of red soil with occasional patches of green, usually few and far between. Because of the unusual amount of rain they’ve had here this year, the area around Alice Springs is now actually green with grass and the trees and bush look well-watered.
The Todd River, running right through here, is now a dry, red riverbed again. Only the pool that gave this place its name and a few other small areas of water remain in the riverbed. The pools are not really springs, but just places where the water pools over granite in some Outback phenomenon.
Alice Springs was named for the wife of the stationmaster who came here to run the telegraph office back when no one was here but the Aborigines. Mr. Todd got the river named for him. Mrs. Todd, who never actually came here, got the “springs” and, ultimately, the town named for her. That’s how it happened back in the late 1800’s.
We visited the telegraph station, now a museum and picnic ground for the locals. A couple of wallabies were lounging in the little bit of shade in their paddock, too hot even to beg for food from us tourists. We bought the fly nets that were recommended and, indeed, they have come in handy, although when we all have the black "veils" on, we look like ladies going to a funeral.
People here seem friendly. Our driver for the day, Colin, has lived here off and on for decades, staying for awhile before returning to the coast that was originally his home. He says he’ll stay here now, but that coming and going refrain seems common. Again, except for the Aborigines.
All through the town, Aborigines are sitting in shady spots, chatting and socializing with one another. We’re told that we’ll learn at tonight’s dinner more about their lifestyles. While we were having lunch in a little Thai restaurant, an aboriginal woman burst through the door, shouting at a man outside.
She then stood inside the door, sometimes muttering, sometimes silent for at least ten minutes while he took up a position outside the windows. When I walked near her to get to our table, I could smell alcohol, so perhaps she was inebriated and doesn’t always act this way.
Sadly, Pat talked with a woman on the plane who provides social services to the people in this area. She told some discouraging stories about failed efforts to keep Aborigines off alcohol only to have them get high by sniffing petrol. Life out here is hot and dry and can be very hard. People are here because they like the open spaces and the clear air, don’t mind the flies and heat and either have good jobs that sustain them or choose to be here because of their ancestry and culture. This is home. Honestly, my reaction was that it’s place where people either get religion or lose their religion; it’s that daunting.
Near our hotel is a driving range with a full compliment of folks practicing their shots this blazing afternoon. Also nearby is a casino, another temptation, apparently, for aboriginals who lose their money there.
Tonight we had a special outdoor dinner on a nearby ranch. As it turned out, it was just our little group, so we had the place to ourselves. The setting was an old quarry on the property where we were treated to an exhibition of boomerang tossing, followed by drinks.
As we enjoyed our wine and beer and sodas, we heard about the huge cattle ranches here in Australia with a little history and some talk about how they operate today. They are very pleased about the rain they’ve had this year because it will allow them to run more cattle on the same amount of land.
Next up was a really helpful history and explanation of aboriginal life. The fellow telling the story went into a lot of detail about how some traditions began and how they made sense for the tribes in olden times. He also talked about how the Aborigines are being assimilated in many parts of the country while others are struggling with the differing philosophies and values brought here from other parts of the world. This fellow, a former chemistry professor who grew up with Aborigines on his family’s ranch nearby, filled in a lot of the questions we’ve had.
Supper was delicious and more than anyone could finish. Most of us had terrific steaks, but fish and vegetarian meals were made available, too. Then we were served pieces of the damper slathered with butter and sugar cane syrup. Yum!
After dinner there was a musical performance by a fellow who sang and encouraged us to sing “Waltzing Matilda” and other Australian songs. He even created a sort of “bush band” with some cobbled together instruments (sort of like a jug band) and our folks did well. Pat showed off her musical skills with the group.
The evening ended under the stars with lights out so that we could see the Southern skies. Again our professor, Don, showed off yet another area of knowledge, using a laser pointer to take us through the constellations. Truth is, I was so tired that I wasn’t following all of that. Instead I was becoming ever more aware that we were up at 4:30 this morning and all I wanted was to come back to the hotel, capture the day in words and go to sleep.
Sleep is my next mission. Tomorrow morning we take a long drive to Ayers Rock for another amazing day in Australia.
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