Independence Day in Bergen (July 4, 2011)

We had our best night's sleep thus far and woke as we were entering Bergen's fjord. Once again, as we’re cruising along, the beauty of the natural setting is breathtaking all on its own, then we spot the white or yellow houses and red barns of farms along the shore and it all becomes almost like a fairy tale.

By the time we had our tea and headed out to the deck to walk, we were pulling into the pier, followed closely by another ship, the Ocean Countess. She is a different sort of vessel, carrying passengers, but perhaps only up and down the coast. Already at an adjacent pier near us is a Princess cruise ship. We were told later in the day that cruise ships make 250 stops here each summer. This is obviously one of the most popular ports in Norway.

Bryggen

We had the morning free, so walked the short distance into the city center and explored the area called Bryggen. Its 40-odd wooden buildings have been preserved despite the fact that some lean against each other oddly. They are colorful and actively in use by local merchants as they have been for hundreds of years. Today the trade is in souvenirs and clothing or home goods rather than the codfish that were the staple of Hanseatic merchants who traded goods for fish in the early years.

Knitted Animal Hats

We went to a tourist information center to change some money.  A U.S. dollar buys about 5 Norwegian kroner these days and they don't go far. I've been pricing sweaters and other items and find almost everything rather dear. This being a very popular tourist area, prices are probably higher than I hope to find in Oslo when we're there in a couple of days. We've seen truly beautiful handknit sweaters, some gorgeous hand-embroidery and other craftwork that is really nice.  Then there were the amazing (and funny) animal hats.

At the tourist information center we were amazed to find an interior decorated with murals and beautiful woodwork. The murals are reminiscent of those done by the WPA in the 1930's in America. It makes a very artistic backdrop for those of us waiting (having taken a number) to change money or buy tickets to local attractions.

Tourist Center Mural

Our joy in the friendliness of Norwegians was enhanced by a quick trip to an optical shop on the plaza to get a replacement for a nose pad on my glasses.  The gorgeously blonde young woman spoke perfect English, offered to repair my specs right away and did so.  When I asked what the charges would be, she would not take any money.  She smiled and said:   "It's my pleasure."  The pleasure, of course, was all mine and I will always remember her efficiency and kindness.

Flag in Fog

Local attractions were the order of the afternoon. We had booked a tour that included a cable car ride to the top of Mount Ulriken overlooking the city and environs. The ride up was fun, but we entered a cloud at the top of the mountain and could see only white around us. Mike took a great photo of the Norwegian flag against the backdrop of the cloud. We were treated to tea and cinnamon buns, but came down without having our "overview." Our guide had warned us (as did the brochure description of the tour) that there are no guarantees. Bergen has rain about 260 days a year and the clouds come and go rapidly. This time the cloud chose NOT to go.

Roof Dragons

We went next to a Stave church, one of 29 now remaining in Norway. These wooden churches are built pine wood, intricately carved and using construction methods used to build Viking ships, thus providing flexibility in high winds. There are remnants of old beliefs in the decorations, particular in the use of carved dragon heads on the roof. Vikings believed that these dragon symbols insured safety from evil spirits.

This stave church in the Fantoft area of Bergen is not an original because the original (moved here from the Sognefjord in the late 1800’s) was burned by a Satanist, we’re told, at 6:00AM on the sixth day of the sixth month in 1992. A generous benefactor made it possible for this exact replica to be built, using the same techniques used by the Vikings. The only original parts remaining are the entrance gate and a piece originally used for the bell tower, plus a tiny stone that was brought back from the Crusades.

Situated in a grove in a suburb of Bergen, the church rises up among tall trees that create a magical spell of their own. Outside the church is a huge stone cross. These crosses were brought to Norway by monks when they began converting the folks here into Christianity. Before they had actual churches, they put up the crosses to indicate where they would conduct services. During this period, many of the old stave churches were destroyed because the monks felt they had too many pagan influences in their design.

Stave Sanctuary

The effect of the pine construction inside the church is unique. Everything is built of wood with the yellow pine walls rising high above, all the pews of the same wood and galleries along the sides with more benches for seating. For the most part the interior is plain, but there are places where ornate carvings are reminders, once again, of the pagan beliefs held long before Christianity came to this place. There is only one window, placed so that pregnant women and others deemed inappropriate to worship within church walls could hear the services.

There are many beautiful homes in Bergen's neighborhoods. They rise up the little mountains that surround the fjord, reminding us of similar homes in harbor cities we've visited around the world, from San Francisco to Sydney. Our guide, who came on a scholarship to the University of Bergen from Peru 12 years ago, told us what we’ve learned everywhere about real estate. As such locations are universally, these beautiful views are seen from the priciest building spots.

Around every turn there are interesting buildings. The city also has beautiful parks and many interesting old churches, lovely gardens and some unique public art. There is a statue of Henrik Ibsen, the playwright some call “the father of modern drama,” near the theatre. We heard it said that the sculptor made Ibsen look like Count Dracula and we could certainly see the reason people think that. It is an eerie representation. There is a beautiful statue of the famous violinist and composer, Ole Bull, with his violin. It, too, is in view of the theatre which Bull was instrumental in founding here in 1850, the first to present actors speaking the Norwegian language rather than Danish.

While this is Independence Day in the U.S., Norwegian independence is celebrated on May 17. It is a source of great pride to Norwegians that they gained independence in 1905 after hundreds of years of rule by either Sweden or Denmark. They have elected to be a constitutional monarchy and chose Denmark's crown prince to be their first king in the modern era. There is a beautiful castle in the city that is the Bergen residence of the royal family. We've been told by several guides throughout Norway that the King and Queen are in Monaco for the marriage of Prince Albert. They are quite proud of their royals, but have no other courtiers in their social structure, just the immediate royal family itself.

Harbor Hillside

We've enjoyed our day here and know we could enjoy visiting this part of Norway again. A trip like this really is like a traveler's appetizer--it just allows a taste of all that is here to savor and makes one want to take that next turn or spend yet one more day to see more, learn more and enjoy it all. As I write this, I am looking out over the harbor to see houses in blues and whites, golds and greens stacked up the hill from the wharves. At the very top of this little slice of Bergen is a tall cream-colored building with a turret on the side and a green dome on top. Behind the entire scene is one of Bergen's little mountains, verdant with the green trees that grow so well in this rainy climate. It's truly a picture-perfect sight.

Tonight the ship's chef has declared American cuisine appropriate to celebrate the Fourth of July. Somehow they make a celebration of each day's menu and we have laughed with other passengers about the abundance of food and the additional pounds we know we will take home from Norway. But we've all agreed we'll worry about those pounds when we're at home, not today.

                        All photos by Mike Lumpkin