The Charms of Oslo (July 6, 2011)



Askerhus Fortress 

 As we woke, we were still in the North Sea, approaching today's stop in Oslo. I chose to walk on the upper deck today and enjoyed our smooth sail up the Oslofjord through the suburbs and into the city itself. Cruise ships here dock within an easy walk of the city center. Immediately across the dock from our balcony is the Askerhus Slott (Castle), described in the guidebook as a "medieval castle from the 13th century remodeled in the late 17th century to Renaissance style." There is an entire complex of wonderful buildings set on a rise surrounded by a stone wall.

After breakfast, Mike opted to rest while I walked into the city. I followed the paths through the Askerhus grounds with its big trees and lush grass lawns. Positioned as a fortress at the head of the fjord to guard Oslo, building began in 1299. Today it serves as an administrative center for Norway's armed forces. Several buildings are used as museums, some are still defense department installations and some halls are used for state functions. There is renovation work going on now, soldiers in battle gear come and go, and palace guards drill and man (or woman) their posts at key spots. Overall it has the feel of a park, a kind of peaceful public space, adorned with sculpture and flowers like other such shady spots throughout the city.

I came across an odd situation in a small park centered around a beautiful fountain at the edge of the Askerhus grounds. Three police officers on horseback had surrounded two people with packs who appeared to have been sleeping there. The people were pulling everything out of their packs for examination by two of the officers while the third held the horses. Two young officers on bicycles joined the scene. I'm not sure what it was all about, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't want to be the two fellows who were being scrutinized.

Wandering through the city for a couple of hours, I found myself taking pictures everywhere. Attempting to find a good place to buy gifts, I stopped in a department store where a young woman at the information desk pointed me to the main thoroughfare, Karl Johans Gate (Street). She actually printed me a Google map to show me where I could find shops selling souvenirs. Her directions were good and I found just what I needed at a little shop below the cathedral. The street is a wide pedestrian walkway crossed by motor traffic on the side streets. All up and down the street, mimes painted gold or silver, costumed as Elvis Presley or a knight in armor competed for tourist's coins with someone dressed as Mickey Mouse. A second "Mickey" with his head off, was having a rest and chat on one of the side streets.

I fell in love with Oslo just walking and shooting photos. Its buildings are really interesting, in every style. I've come to understand there is a Norwegian appreciation for architectural embellishment. Flowers hang from lampposts and rise in great mounds from planters. Oslo is also the ideal destination for a museum lover. There are many museums here, including one we passed that has the world's largest collection of mini-bottles. Most are more traditional, showcasing art (like Edvard Munch's work), history (the Norwegian Resistance Museum) and culture (Eidsvoll Manor where the Norwegian constitution was written). The city streets are themselves a sort of museum, with an obvious love of sculpture visible on almost every block. All this was shown off against a perfect backdrop, today's sunny blue skies filled with puffy white clouds.

I came back to the ship to join Mike for lunch on the pool deck so that we'd be ready for our afternoon tour. We sat next to a lovely couple from Colorado, veteran travelers who shared some of their experiences with us. He is retired from the army and she had worked on military bases, so Mike traded army talk with them when we weren't quizzing them about other cruises they've enjoyed and what they like about the various ships they've sailed on, like the Queen Mary. As we've found each day, these were people we had not even seen before during the cruise. While this isn't a big ship, it's big enough that we're continuously meeting someone new. Last night our next door neighbor greeted us as we came out of the restaurant and invited us to come to his large suite for a glass of wine and conversation with another couple. While we had not seen him before, he had seen us and wanted to have us over. We enjoyed the visit and loved having a chance to see what the really big suites are like, too.

Oslo Opera House

After our lunch, we headed off on the coach for our tour. Our tour guide, Heinz, was a delight right from the start with his droll delivery and caustic sense of humor. Our first quick stop was on another part of the harbor to snap a few shots of Oslo's Opera House, opened in 2008. I had read that it is the only opera house in the world which allows people to walk on its roof and I had wondered about that distinction. It is truly an unusual and very beautiful building, almost a plaza itself, as its white marble design has wide graceful ramps that surround the building and lead, in fact, up to its roof. Like the Sydney Opera House, it sits right on the waterfront, in this case overlooking the fjord and a sculpture of glass panes that resembles a sailboat. The entire scene is breathtaking and the entire area around it is being developed into what is intended to be the entertainment center of the city.

We drove through beautiful neighborhoods, going past the Parliament Building, the spot where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded, the embassies of other countries, including the U.S. embassy which looks, unfortunately, like a grim prison. Our first official destination was the Viking Ships Museum across the fjord in an area called Bygdoy which our guide said is known as the museum peninsula. We passed an unusual exhibit near our destination, the Norsk Folkemuseum, an open air museum set in a park in which more than 150 buildings from all over Norway are on display.

Viking Ships Museum

The Viking Ships Museum, a part of the University of Oslo's Museum of Cultural History, is a fascinating place, one which we had far too little time to fully appreciate.. In a building laid out like a cross are three thousand-year-old Viking ships, two of which are whole and in great shape because they were buried in clay that preserved them. The third ship is less well-preserved, but displayed so that it's easier to see how these ships were made. One nugget of information was learning that Vikings began the tradition of calling the two sides of a ship port and starboard. These early sailors always landed the boat so that the rudder, or "steering board" was on the side away from the dock (port) so that the bottom of the board would be in deeper water. Our visit whetted an appetite to learn more about the Vikings and their history.

Our next stop was at the Holmenkollen Ski Jump, an amazing structure high above the city. The current jump was opened in 2010, but there has been something of the sort in this spot since the late 19th century. We had a quick photo stop and a brief glance at the nearby stave church before heading back down the mountain.

Vigeland Park

Our final destination for the afternoon was the amazing Vigeland Park. This huge park is home to the sculpture of Gustav Vigeland. His 212 sculptures are placed around the grounds, depicting humanity in all its forms. The artist began work on the park in 1924 and most of the pieces were installed by 1950, seven years after Vigeland died. The latest installation was made in 1988. From the main entrance to the final sculpture, called "Wheel of Life" at the top end, the park gently rolls uphill. Pieces are placed strategically throughout, interspersed with walking paths, trees and rose gardens. The sculptures are placed in many ways, including in a huge fountain, and a 56-foot tall monolith, along a bridge and on a series of terraces. There are alleys of trees criss-crossing the entire huge park area. There is a small lake with resident ducks, as well as a public swimming pool on a hill overlooking it all. It is truly an astonishing display of sculpture in bronze and stone, one that rivals those seen in Athens and Rome. Vigeland's vision as an artist was obviously complex and not always comprehensible to visitors. I heard more than one person say "I don't get it," but I found the work very interesting and wished for more time to take it all in.

Vigeland Fountain

Our drive back solidified my desire to come back to Oslo. One could spend an entire week in just this one Norwegian city and still not explore all that is worth seeing and doing here. I feel once again as if I've had a sort of traveler's smorgasbord of scenic appetizers and must come back later to savor the full flavor of all that is available to enjoy.

We are back aboard the ship for now, too satiated with today's experiences to take advantage of the minutes left with another trip into the city. Thus I'm resting my tired feet writing this entry before going to dinner and relaxing for the evening. We sail tonight and will be on the water all day tomorrow, heading for Copenhagen and the end of our memorable trip to Norway. Some of the passengers are staying aboard for an additional week, sailing up through the Baltic to St. Petersburg. I envy them that trip as it is one we enjoyed years ago on a Windstar ship, but I'm also ready to go home, taking so many great memories with us.

Oslo Domkirke

                                          Photos by Mike Lumpkin and Lee Armstrong

Tuesday Morning on the Lysefjord near Stavanger (July 5, 2011)

Sleep (or the lack thereof) has certainly been one of the themes of this trip, thus I was disappointed to find that my sense of having finally arrived with my biorhythms into this time zone was quite wrong. Having gone to bed around 11:00PM, I woke again at about 2:45AM and read until it was time to get up around 6:00. So much for overcoming jet lag as the trip ends in a couple of days.

Amazingly, I felt pretty good and we went for our walk on Deck 5 after a cup of tea. I had more energy than one would think and the cool, foggy morning on a ship moving through the sea kept me awake and moving for warmth, if nothing else. Whatever motivation keeps me moving is a good thing.

Our first sight of nearby land revealed farms, then clusters of homes on the slight rise up from the water. There are lots of homes built in the A-frame style once popular in the States. Here the sharply-pitched roofs are designed, perhaps, to let snowfall slide off to the ground, though the Gulf Stream coming into this area somewhat mitigates snow along the coast.

When the ship pulled into the dock at Stavanger, we were delighted to find that the city's colorful buildings began just outside our window. Mike could step onto our balcony and photograph buildings dated 1900 and 1905. The Victoria Hotel faced our position with its ornately-trimmed doorway beckoning travelers who come here by ship.

Our stop in Stavanger is only a half-day, so we disembarked by 9:00AM for a short walk along the pier to board a big catamaran that would take us through the harbor and under very tall bridges, motoring smoothly miles up into the Lysefjord. As we left the harbor, our guide told us some of the history of the area. It has transitioned from a fishing village with its livelihood first dependent on herring, and then later on sardines. Now it is dependence on oil from the North Sea that has had such an impact on Norway's economic development.

This area is a seaside haven with million-dollar homes dotting the shoreline. Those close to town are condos with marinas at their front doors. The masts of sailboats create little forests of their own along water's edge throughout the harbor and its islands and up into the Lysefjord. The area immediately adjacent to the town is reminiscent of the landscape around Aalesund with shoreline and islands rising above the water into low hills rather than mountains.

The mouth of Lysefjord is relatively shallow, as compared to other fjords where huge cruise ships sail into their depths easily. Once inside the fjord, we saw its singular island and began to see the high, rocky cliffs for which it is known, some of these rising 3000 feet. There have been many industrial attempts here, including copper mining and salmon hatcheries.

We passed a salmon farm and could see the fish jumping inside the enclosures where they spend the first three years of their lives. Also visible in this area, in those places where the rock walls are farther from the water and land is available along the shore, farms and holiday homes create idyllic scenes. Sheep graze along the shore and fishermen can be seen either wading in shallow waters or kayaking. One kayaker I saw was chatting animatedly on a cell phone—modern life is never far away, even here where people have lived for millennia.

The captain of the catamaran was quite adept at taking us very close to the rock faces to appreciate specific formations, such as a sort of bowl at water’s edge, hollowed out of the rock over centuries. There were colonies of mussels, clinging to the rock just atop the water. Then there’s the Vagabond Cave, a spot with a cleft in the rock where early tax evaders escaped the sheriff, climbing up through this opening and throwing rocks down on their pursuers. Someone had hung a sort of scarecrow midway up the cleft.

The boat also pulled in where the guide called down resident goats to come to the shore for the entertainment of the passengers. Two smaller goats, referred to as Gorbachev and Brezhnev, seemed to appear out of the rock itself, followed by a larger one, called Clinton. They obviously expected some sort of reward, got bread thrown from the boat crew, then noshed on the bits of grass available. The guide later confessed that these goats are brought here in summer to amuse the tourists, then taken to a farm elsewhere for wintering. Disney couldn't have designed the show any better.

Pulpit Rock

The biggest draw in this fjord for visitors is Priekestolen or Pulpit Rock, a formation that juts out over the water high above. Its shape, with imagination, is somewhat like a church pulpit. We could see people, as tiny from our perspective as insects, walking at the edge of the flat top overhead. Despite our perspective from water level, the top of Pulpit Rock is about 82’ x 82’—enough room for quite a crowd to gather for the view. More than 100, 000 people make the two-mile hike to stand on the rock each year, we’re told. There is no railing at the edges, but local lore says no one has ever fallen from Pulpit Rock. The legend is that it will fall down when seven sisters marry seven brothers from the same district. So far so good.

On our return along the fjord, we stopped at a shoreline restaurant (and petting zoo) for our morning coffee and tea, this time accompanied by lacy waffles served with cream and strawberry jam. Light and tasty, the waffles are both smaller and thinner than the classic American waffles sold at fairs, slightly sweet but not covered in powdered sugar. The cream and jam provided enough calories without sugar. Our only disappointment was that they weren't served with cloudberry jam as we are curious about it now that we've seen it referenced often in Norway. Perhaps we'll find some to bring home.

We made it back to the ship in time for boarding at 12:30, followed by sailing at one o'clock. We have left Stavanger in time to arrive in Oslo tomorrow morning for our day there. When we came on board, both the patio grill and the outside tables in the Colonnade dining room were crowded as people rushed to enjoy the bright sunshine. This has been a rare opportunity on this trip and, even before some finished their meals, the ship sailed into a fog bank.

Mike and I shamelessly spent our afternoon cruising at sea with a combination of reading and napping, lulled by gentle waters and the movement of the ship beneath us. Our accommodations are comfortably designed to enjoy such time. And, if one tires of privacy, there are many common areas with comfortable seating and great views of the ocean around us. It's obvious that careful planning has gone into this ship, creating so many options. Many times this week, one crew member or another has said, "whatever you like" and proceeded to help us enjoy the voyage. There is enough competition in the cruise business these days to provide inspiration and Seabourn has trained their people well in the art of encouraging happy vacationers.

                                                                     Photos by Mike Lumpkin

Independence Day in Bergen (July 4, 2011)

We had our best night's sleep thus far and woke as we were entering Bergen's fjord. Once again, as we’re cruising along, the beauty of the natural setting is breathtaking all on its own, then we spot the white or yellow houses and red barns of farms along the shore and it all becomes almost like a fairy tale.

By the time we had our tea and headed out to the deck to walk, we were pulling into the pier, followed closely by another ship, the Ocean Countess. She is a different sort of vessel, carrying passengers, but perhaps only up and down the coast. Already at an adjacent pier near us is a Princess cruise ship. We were told later in the day that cruise ships make 250 stops here each summer. This is obviously one of the most popular ports in Norway.

Bryggen

We had the morning free, so walked the short distance into the city center and explored the area called Bryggen. Its 40-odd wooden buildings have been preserved despite the fact that some lean against each other oddly. They are colorful and actively in use by local merchants as they have been for hundreds of years. Today the trade is in souvenirs and clothing or home goods rather than the codfish that were the staple of Hanseatic merchants who traded goods for fish in the early years.

Knitted Animal Hats

We went to a tourist information center to change some money.  A U.S. dollar buys about 5 Norwegian kroner these days and they don't go far. I've been pricing sweaters and other items and find almost everything rather dear. This being a very popular tourist area, prices are probably higher than I hope to find in Oslo when we're there in a couple of days. We've seen truly beautiful handknit sweaters, some gorgeous hand-embroidery and other craftwork that is really nice.  Then there were the amazing (and funny) animal hats.

At the tourist information center we were amazed to find an interior decorated with murals and beautiful woodwork. The murals are reminiscent of those done by the WPA in the 1930's in America. It makes a very artistic backdrop for those of us waiting (having taken a number) to change money or buy tickets to local attractions.

Tourist Center Mural

Our joy in the friendliness of Norwegians was enhanced by a quick trip to an optical shop on the plaza to get a replacement for a nose pad on my glasses.  The gorgeously blonde young woman spoke perfect English, offered to repair my specs right away and did so.  When I asked what the charges would be, she would not take any money.  She smiled and said:   "It's my pleasure."  The pleasure, of course, was all mine and I will always remember her efficiency and kindness.

Flag in Fog

Local attractions were the order of the afternoon. We had booked a tour that included a cable car ride to the top of Mount Ulriken overlooking the city and environs. The ride up was fun, but we entered a cloud at the top of the mountain and could see only white around us. Mike took a great photo of the Norwegian flag against the backdrop of the cloud. We were treated to tea and cinnamon buns, but came down without having our "overview." Our guide had warned us (as did the brochure description of the tour) that there are no guarantees. Bergen has rain about 260 days a year and the clouds come and go rapidly. This time the cloud chose NOT to go.

Roof Dragons

We went next to a Stave church, one of 29 now remaining in Norway. These wooden churches are built pine wood, intricately carved and using construction methods used to build Viking ships, thus providing flexibility in high winds. There are remnants of old beliefs in the decorations, particular in the use of carved dragon heads on the roof. Vikings believed that these dragon symbols insured safety from evil spirits.

This stave church in the Fantoft area of Bergen is not an original because the original (moved here from the Sognefjord in the late 1800’s) was burned by a Satanist, we’re told, at 6:00AM on the sixth day of the sixth month in 1992. A generous benefactor made it possible for this exact replica to be built, using the same techniques used by the Vikings. The only original parts remaining are the entrance gate and a piece originally used for the bell tower, plus a tiny stone that was brought back from the Crusades.

Situated in a grove in a suburb of Bergen, the church rises up among tall trees that create a magical spell of their own. Outside the church is a huge stone cross. These crosses were brought to Norway by monks when they began converting the folks here into Christianity. Before they had actual churches, they put up the crosses to indicate where they would conduct services. During this period, many of the old stave churches were destroyed because the monks felt they had too many pagan influences in their design.

Stave Sanctuary

The effect of the pine construction inside the church is unique. Everything is built of wood with the yellow pine walls rising high above, all the pews of the same wood and galleries along the sides with more benches for seating. For the most part the interior is plain, but there are places where ornate carvings are reminders, once again, of the pagan beliefs held long before Christianity came to this place. There is only one window, placed so that pregnant women and others deemed inappropriate to worship within church walls could hear the services.

There are many beautiful homes in Bergen's neighborhoods. They rise up the little mountains that surround the fjord, reminding us of similar homes in harbor cities we've visited around the world, from San Francisco to Sydney. Our guide, who came on a scholarship to the University of Bergen from Peru 12 years ago, told us what we’ve learned everywhere about real estate. As such locations are universally, these beautiful views are seen from the priciest building spots.

Around every turn there are interesting buildings. The city also has beautiful parks and many interesting old churches, lovely gardens and some unique public art. There is a statue of Henrik Ibsen, the playwright some call “the father of modern drama,” near the theatre. We heard it said that the sculptor made Ibsen look like Count Dracula and we could certainly see the reason people think that. It is an eerie representation. There is a beautiful statue of the famous violinist and composer, Ole Bull, with his violin. It, too, is in view of the theatre which Bull was instrumental in founding here in 1850, the first to present actors speaking the Norwegian language rather than Danish.

While this is Independence Day in the U.S., Norwegian independence is celebrated on May 17. It is a source of great pride to Norwegians that they gained independence in 1905 after hundreds of years of rule by either Sweden or Denmark. They have elected to be a constitutional monarchy and chose Denmark's crown prince to be their first king in the modern era. There is a beautiful castle in the city that is the Bergen residence of the royal family. We've been told by several guides throughout Norway that the King and Queen are in Monaco for the marriage of Prince Albert. They are quite proud of their royals, but have no other courtiers in their social structure, just the immediate royal family itself.

Harbor Hillside

We've enjoyed our day here and know we could enjoy visiting this part of Norway again. A trip like this really is like a traveler's appetizer--it just allows a taste of all that is here to savor and makes one want to take that next turn or spend yet one more day to see more, learn more and enjoy it all. As I write this, I am looking out over the harbor to see houses in blues and whites, golds and greens stacked up the hill from the wharves. At the very top of this little slice of Bergen is a tall cream-colored building with a turret on the side and a green dome on top. Behind the entire scene is one of Bergen's little mountains, verdant with the green trees that grow so well in this rainy climate. It's truly a picture-perfect sight.

Tonight the ship's chef has declared American cuisine appropriate to celebrate the Fourth of July. Somehow they make a celebration of each day's menu and we have laughed with other passengers about the abundance of food and the additional pounds we know we will take home from Norway. But we've all agreed we'll worry about those pounds when we're at home, not today.

                        All photos by Mike Lumpkin

Olden and the Roof of Norway (Sunday, July 3)

Lovely Lupine

Ah, our sleep patterns have finally adjusted. We woke this morning after a good night's sleep (perhaps enhanced by glasses of wine with dinner and a few nightcaps with our Belgian friends). We were sailing into the Nordfjord where we docked at Olden, a small community on the shore of yet another gorgeous body of water surrounded by mountains.

A quick breakfast consumed, we headed for an all-day tour billed as "The Roof of Norway." Despite intermittent rain and fog, it was a glorious opportunity to see and learn more about this country. Our coach took us along the fjord, then up into the interior and the mountains. We passed by lakes and farms, more houses roofed with turf in the old style, and more waterfalls than I could have imagined seeing in my lifetime, much less a single day. All along the way, we saw blue and pink lupine.

As we passed buildings on both sides of the roadway, our guide commented on the vicissitudes of life here. “That building,” she said at one point, “replaced the one that was knocked into the water by an avalanche.” To our right, farms rose up the hillsides toward the steep mountain peaks. To our left, a narrower strip of land allowed for some homes and businesses to sit on the fjord’s side. Based on her comments, the properties on both sides are subject to destruction by the whooshing down of snow and/or rock than can occur here.

As the coach climbs, there are very narrow mountain roads that cling to the sides of the steep rises with sheer drop-offs below. It is hard to imagine driving buses over these roads, but we, like the thousands of other tourists who come here, are, in fact, safely transported up and around, sharp curves are managed and we have the advantage of great views without what must surely be hair-raising stress for drivers unaccustomed to the hairpin turns. Just looking down the steep slopes out of the bus windows is like being on an amusement park thrill ride. Drivers of other vehicles pull aside in places. Despite the two-way traffic, there are spots where allowing for one vehicle at a time is just the smartest plan.

Rockslides Everywhere

The beauty of the landscape masks its capacity for cruel dangers. Our guide told us that she had once seen as many as 24 avalanche sites along the stretch of road between her home and Olden, a drive of about 90 minutes. She pointed out spots where avalanches had occurred and a spot where many conical mounds of rock have been placed to protect the roadway from avalanches. Scientists come here from all around the world to study these fearsome natural events, trying to find better ways to minimize the damage done as snow and rock pour down the mountainsides. Avalanches have the force of tornadoes and have crushed buildings and pushed them into the fjords and lakes, as we heard earlier.

Our morning tea stop was at a hotel up an even narrower and steeply twisting road. Did I mention that our vision was often obscured by a thick fog that drifted in and out of the gorges and across these roads minute-to-minute? Indeed, the sun peeked out as we stepped down from the bus, then we had our cups of tea and walked just outside the hotel to take pictures of the roaring waterfall nearby. Before I could walk back up a little rise from the water overlook, the fog rolled in, thicker than ever.

From Dalsnibba

Back on the bus, we climbed higher and higher into the mountains toward the highest peak, traversing tunnels along the way. One beautiful lake after another lay below the roadway. The last one had sheets of ice in one end and glaciers high above on a ridge. Our destination, Mount Dalsnibba, is the highest peak in the area and a very popular place for travelers. We left the main highway and wound up the steep and unpaved road to the top from which we could see and photograph the town of Geiranger far below on the Geirangerfjord. That is, we could see and take pictures for a few minutes before the entire mountain was wreathed in a thick cloud through which we drove down again.

The road then wound down through the valley past one beautiful vista after another. Here, too, the cloud drifted in and out, our view obscured, then revealed again. Some of the houses built for the workers who constructed the roads here many years ago have been preserved and sit alongside the road, tied down by thick steel cables. The cables are necessary because of the powerful side winds that blow through here, strong enough at times to blow over the houses if they are not secured. Waterfalls drop thousands of feet down the rocky cliffs. A river bursts over rocks as it tumbles down the valley toward the fjord. Everywhere around us is something to see, another picture that could be shot. If we stopped at every opportunity, we would be here for weeks.

Fjord Centre

Geiranger is a popular tourist spot and its waterway is called "the pearl of Norway's fjords." Many cruise ships stop here and ferries move thousands of people back and forth across the water. We had lunch at a pretty hotel that provides a generous buffet, introducing us to mashed swede, a tasty side dish for the pork, salmon and fish cakes, among many other options. Across the street (and a rushing mountain stream) is the Norwegian Fjord Centre with interesting exhibits about life here today and the history of the area.

A note about swede: It’s a Scandinavian dish in which rutabagas are mashed with potato, butter or stock, and sometimes carrots. It reminded me a bit of mashed sweet potatoes. One more thing learned here about the way in which Scandinavian words have made their way into English—rutabaga comes from a Swedish word (rotabagge) meaning, simply enough, root bag. Somehow, swede seems a more appetizing name.

Seven Sisters

We took the ferry across the fjord, enjoying views of the famous waterfalls cascading down the steep mountain walls at the side of the fjord. One waterfall, known as the "Seven Sisters," gets its name because there are actually seven streams of water falling in that spot. Another famous attraction is known as the "Bridal Veil" because it creates a lacy pattern as it drops down the rock face. Cameras were snapping pictures, tourists were posing and a good time was had by all as we took about an hour from Geiranger to Hellesylt.

Hellesylt

Hellesylt, a tiny village, is the childhood home of our guide. We stopped briefly to take pictures of the spectacular waterfall there, tumbling into the middle of the village and beneath a bridge into the fjord. She told us that her parents and others kept children from getting too close to these dangerous waters so close to home by telling the kids that a troll lived there. Trolls are mentioned and seen everywhere here, part of Norse mythology. One story says they were turned to mountains if touched by sunlight, thus there are so many mountains here, but no longer any trolls. There are, actually, plenty of trolls to purchase in even the smallest gift shops.

We turned back toward Olden and our ship, passing again through the little community of Loen. On the return trip, our guide told us a little of Loen's history. Situated on a lake beneath a mountain, the little town was devastated in 1905 when part of the mountain fell into the lake, creating a huge wave that destroyed the houses and killed 63 people. Thinking it could never happen again, the townspeople rebuilt, only to have another part of the mountain fall into the lake in 1934, again causing havoc. It has again been rebuilt, tempting fate.

Happy Travelers

When we reached Olden, we were surprised to find many of the crew members lined up in their uniforms on the pier to greet us. They handed us hot chocolate laced with Bailey's and had a small band playing music for our return. It was quite a sight and, after a long day, both the greeting and the libation were very welcome. As I am writing, we are now cruising back out of the fjord, heading for our next port, Bergen. We look forward to more of Norway's pleasures.

                                                                                   Most photos by Mike Lumpkin

Aalesund and Its Islands (July 2, 2011)



Aalesund, Norway

 At last we are getting more securely into this time zone. I managed to sleep until 5:00AM this day and Mike slept even another hour. We were passing through choppy seas this morning as we came further north up Norway's west coast toward today's port of Aalesund. The captain had warned us last night that we would be sailing into winds that would rock us a bit more and suggested that we secure our belongings before going to bed. Though there was a good bit of pitching and rolling, it was not enough to make anything fall over. I did see one low-slung ship off our starboard side that seemed to be wallowing in the waves rather more than I would like to experience.

The coast here is rocky and somewhat wilder looking than we've seen thus far. It reminds me of the Scottish coast somewhat and, then again, of Alaska. As we came into the islands, the more protected waters are calmer and the mountains rise into the clouds above narrow lowlands along the shore. These hills initially showed fewer of the steeprocky faces we've seen, with more thickly wooded slopes, though without the really tall trees we saw in the valleys around Flaam. Though a cloudy day is predicted, the sun peeped out occasionally as the day began.

No walk this morning, but we expect to do a lot of walking throughout the day in this area. The Sojourn has the best room service ever, arriving with our tea within ten minutes of our phone call this morning. We have found the service and quality of food and beverage to be very good and the staff is always pleasant and eager to help with whatever we want. Last night our cabin stewardess, Mihaela, left us a towel shaped to resemble a little dog--she's really sweet and was excited that we appreciated her efforts.



Godoey Light

 In fact, there was not so much walking, but as we visited the islands of Giske (pronounced Yees-ka) and Godoey, there was ample opportunity for exercise. I climbed the lighthouse on Godoey.  The light sits atop a small wooden building with several flights of stairs, more like a ladder, that took me up to an outer deck where the ferocious winds blew me against the side of the building. The steps were so narrow and there were no handrails on the upper stories, so coming down was actually more daunting than going up. I would say that the view was worth the effort, but, in truth, the island was so flat and the lighthouse so small that there was little difference in the view from the top, only the joy (?) of having abused myself to get up there.  Then there was the moment when I rounded the upper deck and thought for just a moment that I would be blown over the rail!

The lighthouse was a morning tea stop for us where we were served pancakes and chocolate cake. (No worries here about too many carbs, it seems.)  Tourism is keeping the historic lighthouse maintained.  The arts and crafts sold here are quite expensive as a part of the effort to preserve the structure. Postcards were priced at $5 each!

This is really a beautiful, if windswept, place on Norway's coast. Aalesund spreads across seven islands connected by a series of bridges and tunnels. The tunnels go deep beneath the fjord through the rock of undersea mountains. Because of the weather here, especially the fierce winds coming in from the sea, tunnels are better for cars than bridges. One bridge still in use must sometimes be closed due to bad weather. One can easily imagine how precipitous a crossing it would be over the low bridge in blowing snow with high waves crashing over the roadway!  Norwegians live in a part of the world where nature is not always kind. They have cleverly adjusted to their environment, finding ways to make the most of the natural beauty without risking more danger than is good for them.

Giske Church

We visited a small church on Giske. It is made of marble, but the exterior has been covered over to protect it. We couldn't go inside because the interior is being repaired. The islands have, since they have become more accessible through the tunnels, become popular spots for commuters, but land and housing on them are expensive.

The town of Aalesund has, our guide tells us, been voted by Norwegians as "the most beautiful city in Norway."  Devastated by a fire in 1904 when most of its buildings were wooden, the city was rebuilt in the Art Nouveau style. Its buildings, therefore, are beautifully decorated, both with designs on facades and around windows and doors and with wrought iron balconies. One hotel has onion domes on its corners. Some of the buildings are painted colorfully and their reflections in the water below are like rainbows.

Rainbow of Colored Houses

In one beautiful neighborhood overlooking the water, we stopped to photograph a traditional Norwegian home roofed with turf. This particular place is being protected for its historic significance, so the people who live in it are not allowed to make any changes without permission. It's a charming place, but the guide indicated that the residents have to be willing to do without many modern conveniences to live there.

We spent some time at an overlook where it's easier to appreciate the charms of this place. It is difficult to get oriented here because the roads wind through tunnels and many times we were doubling back and twisting around the hills to get from one place to another. The hilltop park around the overlook is very popular with locals who exercise on its paths.  Then there are the tourists (like us) who flock here in summer. I found less expensive postcards at the shop there.  Portions of the German fortifications from World War II remain in the park, a grim reminder of the Nazi occupation. Norwegians are proud of their resistance movement during the Occupation.
We were tired when we returned to the ship from our tour, so opted to relax on board the ship rather than wander around town on our own. The evening was just warm enough so that we could enjoy dinner on the pool deck as we began sailing away from Aalesund. We struck up a conversation with a Belgian couple, first talking of sports and laughing when our Belgian friend said that football is not so popular in his country, but that their national sport is "tax evasion."

We traded stories with Dirk and Christine for awhile, discovering that they once owned a condo in Florida and came to the U.S. often. When it got too cool outside, we went up to the enclosed Observation Bar (one deck above the bridge) for drinks. As the captain had warned us, the wind was strong and there was a lot of motion from the waves. Fortunately, none of us were bothered, so we enjoyed the evening.

Island Marina

                                                                           All photos by Mike Lumpkin