Back in the U.S.A.

We slept in a little this morning with a shorter drive planned today from Bangor to Boston. Interstates 95 and 295 are the quickest routes south and allowed us to have a repeat visit to the New Hampshire coast.

We enjoyed Petey’s Summertime Seafood Restaurant so much on our way north that we decided to go there again for lunch. Their lobster dishes are simply wonderful. We decided to get out and walk at a nearby state park on the beach and enjoyed the fresh air and ocean views there. There are amazing huge homes along the coast there, quite a few for sale, probably with hefty price tags.

Rye Harbor

We stopped, too, at Rye Harbor to watch a lobster boat unloading its catch onto a waiting truck. The afternoon was sunny and beautiful as we hung around the docks. There are a couple of granite memorials there commemorating men and women who have fished these waters for a living. Mike took pictures and I met and talked with a woman taking photographs. She had brought her 21-year-old son there to take advantage of the relatively warm weather on this late October day. She shared their story of her son’s struggle with an illness that has been difficult to diagnose.

This positive and pleasant lady (who lives nearby) pointed us further south to Hampton Beach and another park with a row of small, colorfully painted beach “shacks.” There was also a small, creatively designed garden there and lots of people walking and jogging on the path along the seawall. All along the coast here there are benches with plaques dedicating them to folks who have lived and vacationed here.

We made our way off the beach road and down I-95 to the airport where we checked into an airport hotel and turned in our rental car. This has been a wonderful trip in so many ways, but we’re ready to head home where Michael will meet us at the Charlotte airport tomorrow. We’re happy that we could celebrate with others in Halifax. And there’s no question that we found great places we’ll want to visit again and learned about others that go on our list of places we want to go.

(All photos by Mike Lumpkin except this one by me.  Wherever we go, he's got his camera in hand, finding the shots that remind us of sights we never want to forget, memories we want to save and savor in years to come.  My joy is being in those places with him, sometimes pointing out something he might want to photograph, always reveling in his unique eye for the beauty and often the humor of what we see.  This one was taken as he turned back toward the car from the gorgeous colors of autumn on a little road in New Hampshire. You can see in his stride the pure joy he experiences in capturing the special moments we find.)

Canada Farewell

Moose Signs-No Moose

Monday morning dawned as departure day for those of us who had come to celebrate Ramona and Bill’s new life in Halifax. It was a day of flight schedules, airport runs and time for Mike and me to pack our car and head across Nova Scotia and New Brunswick for our return through Maine and Boston back home to Charlotte.

Our drive took us north and west, making a big loop around the north end of the Bay of Fundy that we had crossed by ferry on Saturday. The farther we traveled away from the coast and toward higher elevations, we noticed that many more trees had lost their leaves, but we continued to see at least some golds and oranges along the way, often set against the deep green of evergreen forests.

We became intrigued by the signs for roads leading to Cape Breton, the part of Nova Scotia farthest north. One of Ramona’s friends we met in Halifax over the weekend lives and teaches there. She has promised to send us information about a possible visit. Cape Breton’s rich heritage and natural beauty make it a highly desirable vacation destination.

We also saw signs for Prince Edward Island and picked up a brochure touting its allure for travelers. Canada’s Atlantic Provinces are all attractive areas with their picturesque seaside settings, the fabulous seafood available at every turn and their rich and diverse history.

Our drive through New Brunswick took us through rolling countryside and through the Saint John River valley. Though many signs commanded our “Attention” with a moose graphic, those were the only moose we saw. We did see lots of farms, a good many of those beautifully red fields of wild blueberries and miles of the “north woods” for which Canada is so well known.

We found a lunch place on the outskirts of Fredericton in New Brunswick not too far from where we would re-enter the U.S. at Houlton, Maine. What we noticed on our travels along Canada’s well-maintained freeways, including the Trans-Canada Highway that we followed from Nova Scotia almost to Maine, was that they rarely go directly through any towns or cities, but stay outside them.

Our customs agent at the border asked a very few questions and welcomed us back to the U.S. As I drove down through the Maine countryside toward Bangor, our destination for the night, Mike kept a lookout for the moose that more roadside signs alerted us we might see. As in New Brunswick, we saw not one moose. Somehow we felt the moose were hiding behind the trees laughing at us and our eagerness to see even one of them.

Our hotel in Bangor has been a good place to stop after a long day of driving, providing a tasty clam chowder and a comfortable bed for the night. Today we will wander down the Maine and New Hampshire coast, find some good seafood and stay overnight in Boston before our morning flight back to Charlotte.

(Photo by Mike Lumpkin)

Weekend in Halifax/In Celebration of Our Ramona, Dr. Lumpkin

Somehow I’ve been unable to find time and will to write over the past three days, but we’ve been busy as we made our way into and out of Halifax and back down to Bangor, Maine, where we’re up before the sun this morning.

Saint John Sunrise

Saturday morning we were up early in Saint John, New Brunswick, to catch the ferry that would take us across the Bay of Fundy to Nova Scotia. The Princess of Acadia was our ship for the crossing. She’s a massive ship with none of the grace or delicacy of a fairy-tale princess. We drove into her cavernous belly along with many other cars and several huge tractor-trailer trucks.

Up a couple of steep flights of stairs we went into the lounge in the ship’s bow and found a spot near a window to enjoy the voyage. The ship included a place for breakfast, so we went there and found something to eat. It’s best that I not describe the fare too explicitly as I don’t cherish the memory.

Princess Deck

Back upstairs, I settled in with my book about Halifax, Burden of Desire by Robert MacNeil. It’s a novel structured around the horrible explosion that occurred in Halifax’s harbor in December, 1917. It was initially my intention to read awhile and then go outside to enjoy the crossing with my face in the cold wind. Mike did go out to take some pictures.

Since I became engrossed in the book (and I recommend it heartily) I didn’t go out right away and by the time I might have done so, the crossing had turned rather rough and I could hardly walk inside the ship, must less venture outside. When I looked up from my reading I could see the movement of the ship through the windows as first just the waves, then just the sky. The ship was really wallowing in high seas along the route to Nova Scotia.

I chatted with a young man who was traveling with his family to Yarmouth. They have made this ferry trip many times, but he said they had never experienced a crossing as rough as this one. His sister was having a tough time with it, spending most of the crossing either lying down or in the restroom. Fortunately, I don’t suffer motion sickness, so managed the ups and downs comfortably and settled back into my book.

Digby NS

Our three-hour journey ended quietly enough in the harbor at Digby. We stopped at the Nova Scotia Information Centre to get a map, then headed north and east across the island toward Halifax on the other coast. The countryside is beautiful. Our route took us along what is called the “Harvest Highway” through agricultural areas in the middle of the island before we turned east toward the Atlantic Ocean.

We stopped in Bridgetown and found lunch at the End of the Line pub. It’s located in an old railway depot building. We were welcomed and treated to pretty good pub food, getting there just in time to get our food before a huge group of parents and teenaged girls arrived. We discovered that Bridgetown was hosting a soccer tournament. Our waiter described the pub’s business for the weekend as “hungry teams and families coming in waves through the day.”

Back on the road, we completed our three-hour drive to Halifax, finding that the Mapquest directions took us easily to our destination. We arrived at the Blackburn-Lumpkin residence to find a houseful of family and friends who had come, as we did, to celebrate Mike’s eldest sibling’s installation as the twelfth president of Mount Saint Vincent University. The honoree herself, Ramona, was at a tea in her honor, but we were happy to see her husband, Bill, and Mike’s mother and sister, Linda, and Linda’s husband, Robert. In addition several of Ramona’s friends from her previous post (Huron University College in London, Ontario), as well as longer-term friends from New York City and Lexington, Kentucky, had come to Halifax.

In the two weeks or so Bill and Ramona have been in Halifax, they have settled into their new home. Bill has painted walls and hung paintings. They had unpacked boxes, shelved books and arranged furnishings. They offered a house full of guests an inviting “inn” for the occasion.

The rest of the evening was a chance to catch up with those we’ve not seen in awhile and make new friends of others. Ramona and Linda and a few others went to a poetry reading to honor the incoming president.

Sunday morning was a flurry of activity. Everyone had to get ready for the installation ceremony which was held as part of the morning’s fall convocation on campus. Those of us staying with Ramona and Bill got ourselves ready at home and helped transport guests staying at a nearby hotel to the event. The day was chilly, but pleasant.

Mount President

It was a very proud moment for everyone to witness the pomp and ceremony of the occasion. There was beautiful music from both a quintet and a bagpiper. Ramona was welcomed with speeches, greetings from many other universities and from faculty, staff and students of “the Mount.” Then we saw the conferring of graduate degrees on over a hundred educators, sharing their accomplishment with proud families and friends. It was truly an emotionally stirring occasion with its combination of robed academics, the beautiful music and the reading of a moving poem commissioned to celebrate Ramona’s new position in this place rich with history. It was a long morning, but never tedious.

After a nice luncheon, we guests left Ramona to officiate at the afternoon convocation. We headed home first and then some of us ventured into Halifax to explore a little before the special evening dinner to come. Mike and I stopped at an old graveyard where we were told some of the Titanic victims had been buried. As it turned out, we weren’t in the right one, but did see some heart-rending memorials to those who died in the Halifax explosion of 1917 that I had been reading about.

In one single decade of the early 20th century, Halifax experienced two tragedies. It was the port to which many of the ill-fated Titanic passengers came after that ship’s sinking in the North Atlantic, both survivors and victims. Those who lived were taken into the homes and hospitals of Halifax. Many of those who died were buried in Halifax cemeteries in that sad April of 1912.

1917 Victims

In December, 1917, two ships collided in the Narrows, so named because it divides the outer reach of Halifax Harbor from the inner Bedford Basin. The S.S. Mont Blanc was entering the harbor on a highly secret wartime mission, loaded with ammunition headed for France, stopping at Halifax as many ships did before making the Atlantic crossing. The S.S. Imo was leaving Halifax on its way to New York to pick up relief supplies for delivery to Belgium. Through a series of mishaps and miscommunication, the two collided and the Mont Blanc exploded with tremendous force, so extraordinary that an entire section of Halifax was leveled.

More than 2000 people were killed and many thousands more were injured. It was so horrific that it’s been written that the scientists who made the first atom bomb studied the effects of the Halifax explosion as they did their work.

The Citadel

Halifax today is still a busy port city, as well as home to a number of universities in addition to Mount Saint Vincent. It is hilly and at its highest point sits the Citadel, an historic fort completed in 1856 to defend against land attack from the United States. It was the fourth such military installation at the site, the first built there in 1749. Now a Canadian National Historic Site, it commemorates the city’s long history as a British naval fortification.

Halifax is also, like all of Nova Scotia, a tourist destination. It has shops and restaurants galore, many along the harbor wharves. The city’s signature tall ship, the Bluenose II, is remembered in a replica of the same name, built from the plans of the original ship. Although it is now in dry dock for this year, it is usually a working vessel, giving public cruises and sailing to other harbors as an ambassador for the city.

We were guests of Mount Saint Vincent’s chancellor, Sister Donna, at a really nice dinner on campus Sunday night. It ended a day in which it became ever more obvious that Dr. Ramona Lumpkin will be a great and fitting leader for the Mount.

(Photos by Mike Lumpkin, the photo of Ramona a replica from the installation brochure--original photographer's name unknown.)

O, Canada!

Bar Harbor Sunrise

Perhaps today’s title is a little misleading since most of our day was spent in Maine. But, knowing that we would come into Canada today, I've had that song echoing in my head all day.

The day began early in Bar Harbor because we wanted to see the sunrise and spend some time in Acadia National Park. The sunrise was predictably pretty and, after a cold front passed through with last night’s rain, it was sunny, colder and quite breezy.

We found a good breakfast spot, Jordan’s in Bar Harbor Village, famous for their blueberry pancakes. We stuck with our protein plan except for one of their wild Maine blueberry muffins since they advertise their blueberry muffins and pancakes in very large type. The muffin was not a thriller, only average as these things go, so we nibbled enough to know what we were not missing and went on our way.

Acadia NP

Acadia National Park lives up to its reputation as a wonderful place. It wraps around Mt. Desert Island (which we learned is pronounced as di-ZERT, as in “desert one’s post”), flowing up from the waters over the hills and to the top of Cadillac Mountain at its height. There is a terrific 27-mile loop that we drove around, as well as lots of hiking trails, carriage tour trails and horse paths.

Our drive took us down to Sand Beach in a cove that is washed by the Atlantic. Further on we stopped at the “Thunder Hole,” where a rock formation on the shore funnels waves through a sort of tunnel and blows it up into the air. Since it wasn’t high tide, we didn’t get the full effect, but it was a beautiful spot.

Sand Beach

We found ourselves driving through the beautiful woods that cover the island with both hardwoods and evergreens. In some places we seemed to be in tunnels of gold as trees grow up from both sides and out over the roadway, covered now in golden leaves that were lit this morning with the special slanting sunlight that makes this time of year uniquely picturesque.

We spent a couple of hours riding, stopping to take pictures and glorying in the beauty of it. We could have easily spent the entire day there, but wanted to get to Saint John, New Brunswick before sunset. Since this part of Canada is in the Atlantic Time zone, an hour earlier than Eastern, we knew it would be getting dark well before six p.m.

We made a brief stop at the park’s visitor center, then headed out of Bar Harbor. We stopped long enough at a little post office to mail a couple of postcards, then off the island to find our way to the road that would take us to Canada.

Blueberry Field

Heading north, we found this part of the journey took us through roads that reminded us of the back roads in our part of the U.S. There were long stretches without much sign of life, a number of abandoned properties falling into ruin and signs for “towns” that didn’t have much town to them at all.  We did see a lot of fields that combined rocks and beautiful low-growth red plants.  Later we understood that these were wild blueberry fields.

When we turned east onto the Airline Highway, there was even less sign of life and, much as we experienced yesterday, we weren’t seeing places to eat lunch. We came to the Airline Lodge and Snack Bar, accompanied by the Airline Rest Area (restrooms in a newish building), so decided to take a chance.

We found the food was good and enjoyed it all the way through the homemade blueberry pie, justifying this departure from our protein-centered diet with the thought that we owed it to Maine to consume their famous Wild Maine blueberries. The pie was, in fact, delicious, as was the vanilla ice cream that came with it. Every place is famous for good vanilla ice cream, eh?

We enjoyed listening to the other diners, too. We heard quite a bit about hunting and fishing and farm maintenance since these are the primary activities in this neck of the woods. It is, in fact, a thickly wooded area with trees for miles and miles, interrupted occasionally by lakes and more rarely by a sort of roadside community, usually a stretch of houses and farms a couple of city blocks long from end to end, if that.

We asked about the name of the road, Airline Highway. It seemed an unlikely name for a place that seems remote from any airline. It was, they said, named that because years ago when it was a dirt road, the small planes that occasionally landed on an airstrip nearby, called it the airline road. Perhaps it was the bush pilot’s idea of a joke as he delivered hunters and fisherman into what was then and still is a wild area.

When we reached Calais on the U.S. side of the border, our navigator (me at that point) got confused by our Mapquest directions (a common occurrence), so we missed our turn toward Canada, but discovered the mistake quickly enough to turn around before we got too far. Reading the map more carefully, I discovered that, if we had continued in the wrong direction, we might have ended up at the island made famous by Franklin Roosevelt, Campobello.

We cleared Canadian customs at the border between Calais and St. Stephen, Canada, without a hitch. Thanks to Mike, we had passports in hand, and, when he ascertained that we weren’t carrying any firearms, the border guard was friendly. He noticed that we’d been in the Yukon this past summer and told us he had recently moved to this post from Alberta.

Canada, like the U.S., is always working on their highways, but most of our road to Saint John was in really good shape. Away from the coast for some miles, the foliage was not as colorful as we had been seeing, but once we came back to the water, we saw more color. We also discovered we would have to go through a toll booth entering Saint John without having changed any currency. Then we got in the wrong lane and had to depend on other kind motorists to let us move to the lane we needed to use.

I apologized to the toll booth attendant, suggesting we are yet another couple of crazy Americans, but he assured me kindly that the locals do it all the time. It was a 50-cent toll, but we didn’t have a “loonie” (Canadian dollar), but he took our U.S. dollar and returned our change. I drove away wondering if he was thinking he had just helped another couple of “loonies”!

Fall Color

Once again, Mapquest directions had us bollixed up, driving around uptown Saint John in circles trying to get to the Hilton Hotel on the harbor. We finally overcame the madness and got to the hotel. We’re told that we’re only five minutes from the ferry. I’m not sure that I’ll be comfortable allowing less than half an hour to get there by eight a.m. tomorrow, based on today’s twists and turns.

We plan to have dinner nearby at a place recommended by the hotel concierge and make an early night of it. We’re both excited about tomorrow’s ferry ride across the Bay of Fundy to Nova Scotia. So far, so fabulous on this trip!

(All photos by Mike Lumpkin)

Maine, Glorious Maine

Another glorious day in Maine began for us in Kennebunkport when we got up early to photograph the sunrise. We drove a short distance out on the shore road and found the perfect spot just past the George H.W. Bush compound (complete with Secret Service guardhouse and black SUVs).

Mike got beautiful shots of the sun coming up in all its shades of pink and watermelon and yellow over the ocean. The shore there is rocky and lined with truly amazing seaside mansions, many with the classic New England shingled exteriors. We did see one up the hill with a fabulous arching roofline, almost Moorish in design atop a green and white coastal home.

On the way back to town we had to stop so that Mike could capture an amazing display of Halloween ghouls in front of an inn. He got some nice pictures of the marina, too, against the backdrop of gorgeous fall foliage across the inlet.

We found a great local restaurant called Little Bit of Lunch down in Kennebunk. They serve a "little bit of breakfast," too, and we had  delicious omelets with fantastic white cheddar cheese, just the thing for us “protein-a-potamuses.”

Kennebunkport Marina

After cleaning up, we headed north again toward our next destination, Freeport and the LL Bean store. We promised ourselves that we would simply enjoy the foliage rather than stop every time we saw a beautiful tree. Thus we were able to reach Freeport within a reasonable amount of time. We stopped at a pottery shop (I know those who know our love of pottery are surprised), then made the rounds at LL Bean and left Freeport behind before any other temptations could ensnare us.

We made our way up along the outskirts of Augusta, oohing and aahing at trees, homes and the pleasures of Yankee Maine, thoroughly enjoying the drive even though the day was overcast with intermittent showers.

We turned east and found ourselves in long stretches of countryside without places to get lunch, so finally ate a late lunch at Lori’s Café on Maine’s Route 3. It was a charming little place with excellent food. The couple at the table next to ours was playing cribbage, kvetching constantly as Mike and I do when playing gin rummy. We met the owner, Lori, who makes her own bread and pies. We somehow managed to avoid the pies (such will power!). It was a good stop.

Back on the road, we made our way to Bar Harbor and checked in to the beautiful Bar Harbor Inn. Our room overlooks the water and gulls were stalking around on the grass slope below our windows until it got dark, looking for a handout. They disappeared then, perhaps to don their pajamas and sleep till morning.

Somewhere along the way we crossed the Penobscot Narrows Bridge. It is a marvel of engineering, what is called a “cable-stayed bridge.” The bridge is suspended between two very tall towers and white cables go down from towers to bridge surface in two triangular strand formations, making it look something like a sailboat (with sails of rope) crossing the gorge. If you’ve seen the Sunshine Skyway Bridge near Tampa, it looks like that, somehow lyrical in design and almost fragile-looking.

At the top of one of the towers you can see windows. These are part of the Penobscot Narrows Observatory. It is the tallest public bridge observatory in the world. We didn’t go up there, but might do it if we’re back this way.

Bar Harbor is on Mt. Desert Island adjacent to Acadia National Park. It is an awe-inspiring setting and the town itself, although clearly touristy, is charming. Because the summer season ended weeks ago, many places are closed and not so many people are here. Most, like us, have come to enjoy the quieter time of year when the trees show off their most glamorous selves, glowing with shades that defy description and have more colors than the charts at the Benjamin Moore store.

We decided to walk a short way to a restaurant in town, Galyn’s that was recommended by some folks Mike met in the bar at the Kennebunkport Inn. The recommendation was right on target. The food was very good, the service excellent (from a fellow Georgian who moved here eight years ago). We had a table in the window at the front of the restaurant where, had it not been pitch black and raining, we might have seen the water. Once again, a wonderful day covering many miles has left us happy and weary.

The photo below was shot for us by a sweet Canadian lady (who spoke mostly French) last night at sunset on the bridge between Kennebunk and Kennebunkport with my camera.  All other photos are Mike's.

New England in Fall . . .Spectacular!

Although our trip toward Halifax began yesterday, we’ve been too busy to blog and it’s been glorious to be busy in the way we’ve been. We left Charlotte mid-morning yesterday for our flight to Boston and, despite more than one warning from the cockpit that we would experience turbulence, we actually never did. Some predictions are best left unsatisfied.

We arrived near Noon, contacted our friends who had graciously invited us to be their guests and headed for their home in suburban Boston. Their invitation was not only gracious, but brave. They are in the process of renovating their wonderful old house in Winchester, having torn out the kitchen, dining room and first floor half-bath, but encouraged us to come even when we let them off the hook.

So we met up with Caren and enjoyed a lovely walk from their home into downtown Winchester for lunch, stopping along the way for Mike to take pictures of the beautiful fall leaves. All our fears that we would miss the best of New England’s leaf season were unfounded. The yellows and golds and reds are all around us, literally taking our breath with their beauty.

We had a fun lunch at “It Rains Fishes,” a nice restaurant offering Asian cuisine, then headed to Winchester’s Arthur Griffin gallery. Named for a well-know photojournalist, the gallery is small, but very special, located in a great little building on a pond with swans swimming across its picturesque surface. There are two exhibits currently, one by Christopher Rauschenberg, son of Robert Rauschenberg. The younger photographer used a point-and-shoot camera for this exhibit to create impressive photographs of displays in antique stores. The photographer’s sense of humor and his wonderful eye for composition come through in the work.

The other exhibit is a series of photographs of porches from New England to Texas to California. This photographer’s ability to capture the flavor of porches in his work and to exploit color wherever he found it made the exhibit both interesting and enjoyable.

We wandered back home with Caren and met husband, Randy. All of us worked together years ago in Chattanooga television, so had years to catch up on, including fond memories of a visit they made to us last summer in North Carolina. We decided to head to one of their favorite local wine stores for wine and cheese which we took back to their neighbor’s house to enjoy with the neighbors.

Meeting up with Caren and Randy’s beautiful daughter, Catherine, back at their house, we headed into Boston for dinner. Their suggestion was Sel de la Terre, a restaurant on Long Wharf. The meal was really wonderful and we walked out along the wharf after dinner to enjoy the bracing air of mid-October in Boston. Then Randy took us to one of his favorite architectural marvels of Boston nearby before we headed back to Winchester. It was a magnificent domed ceiling inside an arch.

Unfortunately, we awoke this morning to the realization that the only working bathroom in the house at this point was no longer working reliably. Somehow this family simply adjusts to each challenge in the renovation process with calm and humor. We all got a good laugh out of the situation before Mike and I headed on our way north.

We enjoyed the beauty of the day as we found our way to Freddy’s, a local breakfast spot in Middleton, then continued on toward New Hampshire. Deciding we might benefit from asking questions at the New Hampshire Welcome Center, we stopped and did just that. The very nice gentleman there recommended that we get off I-95 and head up Route 1A along the seashore. This welcome center, by the way, has an amazing weathervane designed by a New Hampshire artist which depicts a sailor using an old-fashioned sextant. It’s both unusual and delightful.

The DOT representative’s great advice gave us one stop after another to photograph the ocean, gulls, marshes, boats and harbors and the line of classic shingled homes along the shore that march along that route. He also recommended a couple of restaurants and we stopped at Petey’s Summertime Seafood Restaurant. It didn’t disappoint. Their chowders are excellent!

We took a much longer time getting to our next stop, Kennebunkport, Maine, than we might have done because we kept stopping to ogle and photograph so many sights along the way. Every time we agreed that we wouldn’t stop unless something simply demanded it, we spotted something that simply must be photographed. These stops captured not just the leaves in every color, but birds, architectural pleasures, sculptures and an amazing croquet lawn behind a roadside house where a game was underway!

We reached the Kennebunkport Inn shortly before sunset, checked in then hurried to the bridge where we took lots of pictures of the setting sun with its ever-changing colors from yellow to orange to purples and pinks, all reflected in the waters of the river on both sides of the bridge. It was quite a show.

We took time, too, to visit a gallery that our son Michael and I discovered several years ago. It has an impressive collection of photographs by a local artist in York. He has a keen eye for both the sights of autumn in New England and the sports venues in Boston. In addition, the gallery has an assortment of signs and marine memorabilia that’s fun to peruse.  We had a nice chat there with Blake, an aspiring lawyer whose love of his home in this area is delightful.

We had a nice dinner at Alisson’s with me all bibbed up for the lobster special (YUM) and Mike enjoying whole belly fried clams. They also had live music with a young man who is quite a guitarist. We actually sat at a table next to the performer’s mother which made it all the more special.

So we settle in for a good night’s sleep in our comfortable room after complimentary glasses of wine at the Inn. We hope to be up for a good walk and a chance to photograph the sunrise tomorrow before heading further north to Bar Harbor. Two days in, this trip is really more than we’d hoped to enjoy, a happy time in one of America’s most beautiful areas.  Thanks again to Caren, Randy and Catherine for their hospitality that got us off to such a great start!

All photos by Mike Lumpkin.

Here's to Two Bens and My Son, Michael

I’ve been reminded more than once recently that I am guilty of the same sickness that seems pervasive in our country today. I’ll call it infantile analysis, for lack of an official diagnosis. The symptoms of the disease are: general disaffection with life as we find it, feverish periods of unfocused anger, overheated rhetoric (often targeting people rather than issues) and, at its worst, violent opposition to whatever is deemed “not in my best interest.” As the illness progresses, victims become more irrational, less tolerant and ultimately are so focused on the sound of their own voices that they exhibit the inability to hear a point of view that does not reinforce their own.

As for the title I’ve chosen to lead this blog, it’s a tribute to wisdom I’ve encountered from three men who have helped me see that I, like others with this illness, need to return to health and sanity if I truly love my country. And I do love this country. Sure, we have our failings, but it’s still a great country and we owe it to the American ideals upon which it was founded to find a cure for our infantile analysis and return ourselves and the nation to good health again. We can do this if we listen more than we shout and commit ourselves to working together rather than promoting divisiveness.

The first Ben is Benjamin Franklin. In an effort to keep some perspective on where we find ourselves today, I try to read a little history every day. As much as we would like to think we have an entirely fresh take on life and political issues, any look back will teach us that we, subject to the human condition as we are, tend to repeat history and repeat it again and again. So I found myself looking to the wisdom of Ben Franklin for a refresher course on how things really were in the time of the often-evoked founding fathers.

Among other things Franklin said that have a bearing on the heated rhetoric and negative campaigning we experience in 2010, I’ll share here.

“Anger is never without a reason, but seldom with a good one.”

“Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain and most fools do.”

“For having lived long, I have experienced many instances of being obliged, by better information or fuller consideration, to change opinions, even on important subjects, which I once thought right but found to be otherwise.”

“How few there are who have courage enough to own their faults, or resolution enough to mend them.”

He was a pretty smart guy, that Ben Franklin, and one who gave invaluable service to our country at its beginning, even as he argued with other founders, then found ways to collaborate with them to “form a more perfect union.”

The second Ben surprised me somewhat. As I watched CBS Sunday Morning, Ben Stein’s commentary was introduced and I steeled myself to hear something with which I would surely disagree, based on past experience. Then he offered some wonderfully cogent thoughts on this very illness from which too many of us are suffering.

Ben Stein proposes a new pledge for America, a “Declaration of Conscience,” as he called it. Among other comments, he echoed a slogan once used by the City of Atlanta, when he said “we are far too busy to hate.” He called on all our parties to rise above the public tone that is “sometimes morally and physiologically ugly” and suggested that our disagreements not be characterized by “a spirit of hatred based on religion or race or sexual orientation or wealth or poverty. “

He made sense and earned my respect. I recommend that you go to the CBS Sunday Morning website and read Stein’s commentary.

The third man who set me on the road to first think about my own infantile analysis, then attempt a recovery, was my son Michael. He called me out in a conversation when I said that I just “hated” someone with whose point-of-view I vehemently disagree. He was gentle, but straightforward, my son, reminding me that I would never allow him to espouse such hostility toward others unless they were guilty of viciously horrendous crimes against mankind.

He was right, of course. I was, like too many of us these days, verbally swinging for the fences when a solid hit to get on base would be more intelligent.

So I thank the two Bens and my Michael for helping me to stop and think about what I can do to help our country today rather than just be upset about it. And beyond what I can do, they’ve made me realize that I want to do it in concert with others, including those with whom I differ. What we need now is to stop baiting and bashing and start applying our passions to productive behavior. I’m going to work toward that goal.